We were expecting to move camp in November but we've been allowed to stay where we are which is actually rather nice as we like it where we are. As we thought we were moving we had effectively 'closed' the camp for the month so it's been a bit quiet on the guest front but on the other hand it has meant we could do a lot of the things we otherwise wouldn't have had time to do. David has been covered in grease for weeks…

We are still waiting for the rain to come. The clouds are still building everyday but so far we have only had one small storm. We can smell the rain in the afternoons and it is falling all around the reserve, I hope more will get to us soon. It is so, so dry and hot. Not a drop of water lying anywhere. Most of the rivers have dried up completely and there is only one place near the main gate which has any water in it which is rather worrying. The animals have to cover great distances to find water and many are beginning to show the signs of this distress. It is normally a time of plenty for the lions but they are also looking a bit worse for wear. I think it is just too hot to do too much hunting…

The other night (at about 7pm) just as we were getting ready for dinner, we found a honey badger in the kitchen. Luckily he was more interested in exploring rather than in our dinner. It is unusual to see these creatures so early in the evening and we were rather excited to have such a good view of him. He is an animal not to be messed with so we waited for him to finish, all gathered a small distance from the entrance to the kitchen tent. Honey badgers have a well deserved reputation for not being afraid of anything and anyone. There are reports of them attacking the genital regions of would-be attackers - so you can understand that we were happy to let him be. The next night we barricaded the kitchen without a scrap of food to be seen and he hasn't been seen since…

There is a family of jackals living near Tent 1 and most evenings we see them having a quick drink from the bird bath in front of the mess tent before going out for an evening's foraging. It's been great to see the pups grow - now they are all ears and long legs.

Frank (one of our waiters) who is training to be a guide was sitting outside the mess tent doing some early morning birding a while ago when a rather large, rather good-looking male leopard sauntered right past. (We were shopping in Iringa and so unfortunately didn't get a look at this magnificent animal.) In fact most of the staff are becoming avid birders so any trip to do chores is accompanied by bird books and binoculars and it is hard to be in a rush. (We had our own treat two nights ago when a young female leopard walked past our tent. She was calling and we aren't sure if she was looking for cubs or a mate. Very exciting…)

Many of the trees and shrubs are starting to get their new leaves so there is a hint of green around - much to the relief of the giraffe and elephant. After just one shower of rain, the new grass is starting to pop up already. We are starting to see a few of the feathered migrants coming in but we expect they will come in full force with the rains. We were in Selous early last month and it was amazing to see the difference there - they'd had cuckoos for over a month already by then. We are waiting patiently for the first call…

When it is so hot, it is hard to think about Christmas especially when the thought of a big, sumptuous meal is enough to bring you out in a sweat. We've been listening to the news from Europe where it is cold and wintry and very conducive to a big indoor feast. I think we'll have to have our Christmas dinner in the cool of evening under a starlight sky singing Xmas carols around a campfire - though I'm not sure what the wildlife will think! I've written my Christmas list and hope that my presents will be able to find us in the middle of Ruaha (it's about time for that chocolate-bearing hairdresser again)!

Well, that's about it. We wish all our guests a very happy festive season and hope you will be sharing it with family and good friends. We hope that 2008 will be a great year for everyone, full of good health and wonderful travels. Maybe our paths will cross. Wherever you are, be safe and take care.

Colleen, Owen and all the team here at Kwihala!

PS - It actually rained for the first time last night - what a relief and what a storm!